Been looking for this part for days. The sensor is bad, which is triggering a CEL. Went to two local picknpulls,…nothing. Internet is basically useless with all the AI BS and ads for wrong product. Anyone know a decent aftermarket varíant? Or am I just SOL and need to junk it cause I can’t pass local emissions anymore?

Easily my favorite car I've owned, up until recently.

A series of symptoms led me to taking it in for a diagnostic, first to the dealer (in case the issue was covered by the emissions warranty still in effect) and then to a local mechanic shop with lots of experience with PHEVs and Volts (according to manager). Each shop came up with a different report of findings with very little overlap, but both quotes were quite expensive, as were the diagnostic fees. With a 12-year-old car that is no longer supported and how much I depend on it for work, I decided it was time to cut my losses and yesterday I bought a much newer PHEV.

I got a pretty low offer from Carvana ($1300) which would be reduced by 50% since I live 150+ miles from a dropoff location and would need them to pick it up, so I thought I'd check in here with the r/volt community to see what y'all think before I make the appointment.

The details:

129K miles, never had any major issues (no BECM or EGR issues). Lately there was a cyclical whining sound when the engine would decelerate while in L/regenerative braking mode, so I made an appointment to have it looked at when I got back from a work trip to LA (I'm 100+ miles North of there).

On the way home from the work trip, the "Check Engine" light came on, so I pulled over and checked my ODB scanner: "Cylinder 3 misfire". The last leg of my drive would have been up a mountain pass and I was out of electric-only miles, so I opted to have the car towed back home and drove on electric-only for short distances until I delivered it to the dealer. Their diagnostic report said 12V battery failed load test and they saw evidence of rodent damage in the air filter. Coupled with a damaged front turn indicator from a fender bender I'd had a while back, their quote for repair was $1700, so I opted to get a second opinion at the independent shop down the road.

The mechanics kept the car for nearly a week, trying to hunt down the sound I described to them, without being able to duplicate it; their deep-level diagnostic findings showed torque mount nearly split, motor mounts sagging, oil separator diaphragm leaking. Quoted $4K for repairs.

The discrepancy in the findings from the two diagnostics make me wish I was more mechanically inclined. The car never showed the "Check Engine" light again after that first time, and apart from the weird sound at deceleration, has not driven rough or had any noticeable issue.

I know I'd be crazy to imagine there's not some grain of truth to either of their diagnostic reports, and I'm ready to move on, but it hurts my feelings a little to think I would only clear $650 from the sale to Carvana. Before I surrender, I came here to share my sad little story.

Anyone have any opinion or feedback on this? Many thanks for a reply.

~Dejected in Central California

I'm very tempted to get new suspension. Doesn't seem like there's anything available for the volt, at least the full assembly. I was thinking of doing the fronts but maybe I'll do all corners. I've heard the Chevy Cruze is a good substitute.

Any thoughts. I'm sure the cruise is a few hundred pounds lighter

I got my 2019 chevy volt through carvana last year in November. Not even before the week was through I had an egr issue that was fully covered by carvana, only to have the issue pop back up and needed to be done by a dealership.

The cost for replacing my egr was $2,000 both times I went to get it fixed. Now just about 2 ish months ago I went to start my car to go to work and hit with the screen saying, "battery fault, shutting down soon". I plugged in a scanning tool and looked it up and found it could possibly be the normal 12v so we tried replacing that to no success. I decided to get my vehicle towed to the dealership and have them look at it.

After about a week of it being there I was told that it was a becm issue and that they got the go ahead to order the parts needed, but they had no ETA on when it would arrive, and update me accordingly.

It has now been over a month sitting in the shop with still zero updates on when it could be fixed. I am obviously very stressed and upset by this since I need a car to get to work, so I called and asked if there were rental option or literally anything. My service provider told me she talked to the service manager and that they could not provide a rental, still don't know when the vehicle would be fixed, and their best advice was to trade it in.

I still owe $16,000 for it and it's worth $8,000 ish for trade in value from the research I've gathered.

I'm 22 and this has been the most stressed and screwed over I've ever been since I decided to buy the damn thing. I'm just hoping someone has any kind of advice they could give me on what to do in this situation.

For a little bit more info I barely drove the car very far, it is about 90,000 mi and I got it at around 86,000 I believe. I don't have the kind of savings or money lying around for a trade in so it's not my first choice. I also know that it's all covered under the voltec warranty. Thank you very much, any help would be appreciated!

I was watching a video on a Tesla and they were talking about the fleet ones getting more maintenance. One thing they were talking about was a oil change for the power unit. Another thing was replacing the coolant. My volt is the 2017 with 100k I'm sure there is some kind of oil that is part of the power unit. I probably also should change the coolant, partially because it probably has never been changed. I bought it about 15 months ago.

Has anyone change the oil on the drive unit? What things would you recommend? I had an oil change done. Put in 5w20 the new mobil one clean. I am thinking of checking with Chevrolet for the EGR and the becm, before it runs out of warranty. Car only gets about 32 on a charge.

When your battery is still good on a Gen2 that has driven farther than the distance to the moon.

I have a 2014 Volt and my driver window just made a popping noise and then fell all the way down into the door. It will not come back up so I’m guessing the door will have to be taken apart. I’m hoping the window is fine and all that broke is whatever plastic piece holds the window onto its track. Nice timing though… right before El Niño hits SoCal. Anyone have this happen? Is it a costly repair?

2016 with a few bad cells. I can clear the error and run the engine full time and still drive it but if I try to accelerate hard or drive highway speeds I get the error again and have to pull over. 117k miles on the clock. It has the new BECM. Mechanically great, interior good, exterior has some minor issues. Think I can get $2 or $3k out of it?

BECM failure finally happened to me at about 95,000 miles. I took the car into the Chevy Dealership and was surprised to find out that Special Coverage N232432680 did not apply to my VIN. I did some looking and found that the car was originally registered in a CARB state and so has the PZEV warrenty and therefore did not get the special coverage due to that one covering things. But that one only applies in CARB states which is not where I reside.

I tried to call GM customer support and got rejected with same words as dealership "Your VIN is not included and there is nothing we can do." Has anyone else navigated this situation successfully and gotten their repair covered?

I did email the GM executive resolution email with my situation as it seems a few people on here have had success with, but overall it seems to be a little bit of a coin toss as to whether it can be covered or not.

I’ve been using the Popsocket cellphone holder and attaching it on the left side vent beside the steering wheel but it’s winter and I need to turn on the heater so it’s heating up my phone. The worst part is driving it night when my phone glare reflects on my driver side windows and I can’t see the road properly.

So please put links for cellphone holders that are working for you. Thank you!

The new v2.3.x app update allows you to switch back and forth between the ELR and Volt designs effortlessly using just one button.

If you want to breathe new life into your Volt's cabin, the ELR cluster gives it a completely different vibe - and you can revert to the factory design whenever you choose.

The config stays in the cluster and survives power-offs.
To activate it, you'll need a vLinker MC/MS or ObdLink MX+ adapter.
Sold as a separate purchase add-on with a discount for existing Premium users.

Limitations: it lacks the EV battery, fuel bars, and the Line Keep Assist icon. You can still see the EV and fuel ranges as numbers below. LKA works as usual; it just doesn't display the icon.

Demo video: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RRA8NAT82UE

Get Voltage: Android · iOS

To anyone new to their volt or looking for a car i can say this car has been the absolute best. I went from an '00 Civic to a 2018 Volt Premier as my 2nd car. I live in the central valley of California and this girl took me to LA, SF, SD, Sac, hell it even took me to Nevada and brought me back with no issues. The only trouble she ever gave me was a week long hiatus for a BECM replacement under warranty and she was ready to go explore again. My birthday was in october and she was gonna take me to oregon this time around. Sadly just 4 days before my birthday and 2 days before my trip began i got off work early and decided to treat her to a detailing with my first stop being the car wash.

Not even 10 minutes after my shift ended and I clocked out, A truck ran his stop sign and came to a complete stop directly in front of me while i was going 40 miles an hour with less than 50ft to stop. She gave up the rest of her miles to let me keep going on mine. The crash avoidance and systems swerved me to the right and the bed of the truck went up my hood and slid over just before it made contact with my windshield. Luckily I limped away with a gash on my wrist, some chemical burns, and a gnarly back ache. As I leave this Car and go back to a traditional ICE vehicle, i wanna share some photos she gave me.

See y'all on the flipside. Wish you never left, Noir.

I'm curious to know how you guys are ensuring your volt. These cars have limited replacement parts, and are typically worth less than 12k for older models. How are you insuring? What's the reason?

Just a reminder for those throwing snow tires on this year!

Are there any non-dealership shops in the Chicago area that will work on a Volt? Any recommendation is welcome but personal experience is preferred. Thanks!

I was driving and my check engine light came on so I only had when I ran the code this is what I got. I cleared the codes but I have to do some research on them. Is this a big issue or does anyone know about this problem

When I am in normal mode using electric only, even in comfort or eco mode, the heater only works sometimes, and not for very long. I can see on the display that the AC icon turns on and off back and forth constantly, or stays on AC even though I want heat. Coolant levels are full. What can be causing this and how do I fix it?

it is so confusing to look at the various adapter options out there for my 2015 Volt. And no matter what search term i use, all the adapters that are coming up seem to be for using on Tesla cars - not their damn chargers. Is there any real use for CCS adapters? any recs for best J1772 car to NACS charger adapters? Thanks for your help.

Only at low speed, especially start and stop once rolling at higher speed The noise goes away.

Does not get worse when going over speed bumps.

Quite noticeable when turning the wheel.

Low pitch banging noise.

Might have made it to 400K miles if the inner and outer were swapped at 200K miles.

well now this POS decided that it doesn't really want to heat. I have to basically have it on high and it's only in the 40s where I live. if I said it to say 70 when I get to a stoplight it starts to blow cold air. any ideas? I don't think it's the thermostat because the car is between 190° and 210 degrees

I have a 2016 volt and just got this light... the day after I got it back from the dealership to fix my egr valve (from my least favorite employee there, Christian Douche). The check engine light came on, my car is loud now, and it did smell like oil before, but today it smelled like gas to the point it's making me sick. I got the propulsion power reduced from it today too :( and also before either of those things, I have noticed "tighten gas cap" come on quite a bit lately (in the past month or two... maybe even 3 tbh), despite me twisting the cap in just once like it says to do. Not sure if it's related, maybe it's something to do with that?

Either way, since I'm not sure what part(s) are causing this, I'm not sure if it's covered under the limited emissions warranty. I'm not giving those losers at the dealership a dime unless I absolutely have to. Does anyone have any idea what parts could be causing this, or any ways to get it covered under that warranty? I am in a CARB/PZEV state, so that helps. I think this should be covered under it, because the warranty does state it covers any parts related to a failed emissions test, which is exactly what this is, but Mr. Douche has a hard time reading and was trying to tell me it wouldn't be covered (like he told me about the BECM). (I've also asked the dealership to have anyone else handle my cases and for some reason it's still always that douchebag.)

Or better yet, if there's a way to fix this at home, I'm all ears!

Edit: I was just driving and noticed this: you know how the ring around the speedometer is always green? When I braked, it turned yellow and took a second to go back to green. Is that something to worry about/is that related to this?

Edit 2: I just sat in my car just for warmth on break at work and it was fine when I turned it on, but kinda shook and was loud when I turned it off?