Hi :-) I am a EE student with pierced ears. Two lobe piercings. Recently, just for fun, I decided to put a resistor in my piercings. After wearing them for a lab period, I ended up really liking how they look. They're funky and cute, I'd like to wear them all the time lol. I haven't been able to find earrings that look like a resistor and i'm debating just putting earrings backings on these resistors. I wonder what the metal for the legs is, because I'm afraid it might irritate my skin. Thank you for your help!

Hi, Out of curiosity, I'm looking to identify this component soldered on a unidentified Sony PCB (seem to be video related) The case and size look like a fuse and the inside is like a mercury thermometer. Maybe to count hours of working ? Labeled as TM1 on the silkscreen

I took heavy inspiration from axiometas brodboost-c and tried to enhance the design with indication LEDs, slimming down the board and adding slide switches. I have fairly limited knowledge on how to design pcbs but im learning quick. Ive added the changes reccomended in my last post, any advice would be really appreciated!

This sure does look to me like other smd mics such as SEN2991, I couldn’t get the QR code to work and my cursory search of the SKU engraved on the package came up with nothing.

If it does turn out to be a microphone, why? For what purpose does a vape need a mic? If it is for collecting audio, wouldn’t it be a little more clandestine? (ie not labeled “mic”)

Note: It is labeled “mic”

The pcb serial is in the photo

This is a FOGER SWITCH PRO KIT 5% vape

The pictures are of the drive circuit for the coil, this detaches and is charged by the piggyback battery bank with the screen and button.

The reliefs in the center of the PCB are where the air flows into the device.

I got an aftermarket heated steering wheel. It looks factory and works great.

While installing, I noticed a plastic box with a USB-C port as part of the wiring harness. Opened it and saw this. What might I be looking at here? There's no temperature adjustment- the heat is on or its off.

This is a Cortland CT-500. the blown 1.6A 125V fuse couldn’t be replaced, so I soldered a 1A 250V fuse using silver lead free solder. as far as I’m aware, this work is strange but above board. can anyone confirm if this is dangerous or ok?

Hi all. As many others before me, I have been saving up all my/my friends' "disposable" vapes to salvage the batteries for years now, I have hundreds. However, since about 2 years ago the most popular model everyone I've known has been using has included a TFT screen in them (RAZ brand, models LTX 25K/DC25000 and others). It seems to be about 480x800 pixels, and honestly looks pretty decent. I once took one apart hoping to make use of the screen just for fun and quickly gave up due to not recognizing the connector and having generally no idea what I'm doing anyway.

Now I'm going to have to actually break down and salvage the batteries from the hundreds of these that I have sitting in a bag just to free up some space, and I figured it's a good time to reach out to folks who are more knowledgeable to ask:

Are these screens worth saving/using for a project? First I assume we need to identify the connector type. I also don't know anything about screen driver chips or how to use them, but I was hoping a PCB could be built using one of the popular PCB manufacturing services to make one work (or an array of many of these).

Why? I don't know. Just seems stupid to be throwing stuff out if someone out there can figure out how to make use of them, or would like them for free. I'll send them all to anyone who wants them. I know screens like this aren't exactly expensive brand new, but hell. I guess that's why I'm here asking if others think it's worth a damn to save them.

I'm also very curious, regardless of if anyone thinks it's worth keeping them, what exactly this type of connector is called? I will probably still at least order a PCB as a breakout board to play with one of them on my own either way.

Attached the best photos I was able to take.

Seems the screen has a label on the ribbon connector that says "YIHUA TFT YH-177CX6955C2"

What appears to be the driver chip seems to be labeled:

"Nation

N32G031

K807-1

N6F15006" (Give or take a few possible misread characters, I do not have a microscope)

Let me know what you think, or if you want them once I've ripped them all out, there should be at least 50 in working shape 😅

UPDATE: I managed to get the IC identified, thanks to the people at siliconpr0n :) It's a Sitronix ST2104. Now looking for ways to extract the code...

I'm a CS undergrad, so I don't know a lot about PCBs and electronics, but I'd like to try to extract the code from this IC, which belongs to a small electronic video game. However, it's covered in an epoxy blob, which makes things much more difficult. I think that knowing what chip(s) lie underneath would be quite helpful.

In other words, I'd like to identify the model of the chip lying under the epoxy blob, but I'm not really sure how. I know that there are decapsulation services, but will that be enough? Besides, is there any other way of identifying the chip? (I dont care if the PCB breaks, I have a spare one) For example, I see that there are what it appears to be some exposed "vias" on the left (though I don't know what tools I could use to analyze them).

Any help is appreciated 🙏

P.D: Does anyone know what the yellow thing near the epoxy blob might be?

I have been using a cmos camera sensor at my university for particle detection. I tried to cover the sensor with some black tape, and tried pointing the sensor at a IR light source to test if the tape also absorbed IR. When I pointed the cmos to the light source, I started seeing this on screen. What am I looking at? Thank you everybody!

can someone translate please

Found an old 12 volt power supply i built years and years ago. It has always worked well but I suspect it turns on brutally (just full mains to the transformer) and may need a cap or some component across the power switch? Any thoughts welcome. For clarity I used to use it running car subwoofer amps indoors. Never blew the 40a fuse.

I had an experience that made me curious: My water distiller was broken. I considered just buying a new one, but I live in South America, and shipping would have taken a long time – not to mention the expense.

With some Claude-assisted troubleshooting (I don't know much about electronics), I was able to identify that this capacitor was blown. So I went to the center of my little city, found an electronics-repair place, and got a new one soldered about $1.50, parts and labor, in less than ten minutes (upgraded to 25v while I was at it). A new water distiller would have been about $125.

What would it have cost to get this capacitor replaced in the U.S.? I picture rolling into an electronics-repair place, them filling out a work-order, telling me it's a $50 minimum and will take three weeks.

I'm trying to remove the pin header from a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W, but the solder won't melt no matter what I do. Flux and heat haven't helped.

I already removed the header pins
but unable to remove this blob of solder The blob of solder doesn't melt and yes i bought a new soldering iron with new tip and even it couldnt melt the solder Even if it does melt it's says only for like fraction of a section.