Hello! We fixed many bugs and regression from the last update. Artifacts in Flashback and The 7th Guest are now gone, audio is now persistent in Lost Eden and many imperfections in VCDs are solved.

My tests are pretty solid right now, but you can send feedback on any game via emulator.

Enjoy! Link: https://github.com/sigsantilio/opencdi/releases/tag/v0.4.0

As a change to all this switch stuff (yes I am the developer of MeloNX as well), with the s2 emulation and nintendo taking down stuff (again)

I've been focusing for the last 9 months on MeloCafe! A Wii U emulator for iOS!

This is a sneak peek of MeloCafe 1.2 with developer commentary in the captions.

MeloCafe 1.0 - 1.1 is out and ready to download at:
https://github.com/stossy11/MeloCafe/

with a TestFlight and App Store release hopefully soon.

(and no, this is not libretro)

I’ve been working on an English translation of Hikaru no Go 3 for the GameCube, which was only ever released in Japan, and thought I’d share it here.

The game is now pretty much fully translated into English. It’s taken nearly 60 revisions to get everything to this point, with a lot of time spent on the dialogue, graphics, fonts and getting English text to fit properly.

A few things included in the patch:

• Translated Story dialogue, character conversations, menus, tutorials and Go matches.

• English name entry and translated in-game interfaces.

• Updated graphics, text layouts and speech bubbles to accommodate English.

• Quite a bit of dialogue revision to make conversations sound more natural rather than overly literal.

I’ve also made a simple Windows patcher, so you don’t need any technical knowledge to apply it. There’s a standard BPS patch included too.

The latest version is v1.0.4. The translation work is essentially finished, although some optional routes and features, particularly GBA connectivity, haven’t been thoroughly tested.

I’ve used AI tools extensively throughout development, alongside a lot of manual review, debugging and testing.

If anyone gives it a go and spots anything strange, especially awkward dialogue or text that doesn’t fit, I’d really appreciate hearing about it!

Github: https://github.com/KodakWizard/hikaru-no-go-3-english

Romhacking: https://www.romhacking.net/translations/8123/

• initial support for Nintendo Switch 2!

• launches native app recomps on Windows, macOS, and Linux!

• support for the Lichii emulator

• new high quality box art database for Switch 2

• improved stability and bug fixes

Full devlog: https://quinton-ashley.itch.io/nostlan/devlog/1770440/nostlan-v43-switch-2-support

A massive update, really! EVERY game I've tested is working and with correct speed!

Huge thanks to Arnold for his contributions: OpenCDi now supports Libretro! This means you can run it directly in RetroArch, across supported platforms!

More improvements on everything else: graphics, audio, videos...

You find an online form via "Send Feedback" in the emulator to report any bug in case of problems.

Download here: https://github.com/sigsantilio/opencdi/releases

• GitHub

• Emulator core fork

Tested on the Nokia N95 8GB, E90 and C5-00.2

On the Nokia C5-00.2 and on an overclocked Nokia N95 8GB, the fourteen games measured so far run at between 28% of the speed of a real PlayStation and full speed; on an N95 8GB at its factory clock they run at between 22% and 89%. The full table is in Game speed.

Note: I did not use "AI" or anything like that for this post. I'm mentioning this because some people think using organized bold headers means "AI slop!"

MAIN ISSUE

In MAME, and any other similar project that maps arcade racing game steering to a modern analog stick controller, the analog stick instantly and immediately translates to (emulated) steering wheel position. So in every racing game, steering is too sudden: what takes a few milliseconds/millimeters on analog stick to go from 0-100% was originally physical turning of a steering wheel from 0-100%. So in something like Virtua Racing, the car rotates fully way too quickly, Daytona USA (in MAME) is very unpleasant on analog stick, and a (2D) game like Big Run seems unplayable.

Does anyone have a good and reliable fix for that? Like a utility app you can run that filters your analog stick?

DISCUSSION

For people who don't know, racing games made for modern controllers don't work the way described above. Console games (I.e. games made for a gamepad with analog sticks) have filtering where a full deflection of analog stick less directly or slowly translates to full steering if it's held for a few moments. (And more complicated, the sensitivity is often based on current speed, which would vary by game/programming, but we can ignore this for now.) You can see a good illustration of this if you turn on Telemetry in a modern Forza game, the first info page, and move the analog stick left and right while you drive around: you'll see the visual indicator of steering is clearly filtered and does not instantly reflect the analog stick position.

I used the word “slowly” above but that’s probably inaccurate for what we really want in a filter, see this comment for some technical explanation.

• Games like Forza have filtering as a default plus a user option for "Simulation" steering which is the "direct" mode with instant unfiltered translation (and is mostly intended when using a Wheel controller not a gamepad).

• In Ubisoft's The Crew there are some setting sliders for how the filtering works. But I doubt anyone can understand what the obtuse unexplained labels mean or what effect the sliders have.

From what I can tell, these kinds of filtering haven't yet been volunteer-programmed into MAME or any arcade port/emu projects.

Note: some games do relatively direct and unfiltered steering, for example GRID, I think. So if you check a random game to see what I'm talking about, some might not have what I call "normal" filtering. If a person finds 'direct' translation between analog stick and in-game steering angle to be natural, normal, or easy, that person might not know the problem I'm talking about. Similarly for if a person has really good disciplined analog stick control. But if a person sometimes "taps" the analog stick to the side, by tradition (maybe dating to the d-pad days, I'm not sure), you'll know the problem I'm talking about, because filtered games feel OK and unfiltered ones feel horrible and twitchy.

Teknoparrot has a so-called "Stooz Zone" option in Main Settings, with a % slider, but no description of what it does or how it works. The strange name, and the lack of in-app info, is probably a great illustration of how undiscussed(?) the issue I'm talking about is. Official documentation says: "One important option in here is the sTo0z Zone. This controls the % of joystick deadzone around the center of the stick. This is helpful in driving games to make it less "twitchy" when using a controller to steer. Most users seem comfortable using 16%-20%. It is not recommended to use this setting if you are using a wheel to drive." The mention of dead zone isn't encouraging for reasons below, and the fact that 'dead zone' was renamed to a strange opaque name isn't encouraging either.

WIDESPREAD MISCONCEPTIONS.

I've tried researching for solutions but haven't found good info. To head off mistaken answers in the comments, keep in mind:

• There's plenty of meaningless useless slop and diarrhea drivel

• "adjust the sensitivity setting."

  • That does NOT affect analog stick steering in MAME, it only affects d-pad (digital button) steering for an analog-steering game.

  • As another example, the S.C.U.D. Race port has control settings for a Linear or Cubic (i.e. "100" setting according to the help text) analog stick behavior. Cubic means the 'early' part of the analog stick movement will have a smaller effect compared to when you move toward fuller deflection, whereas Linear causes equal changes no matter where you are in deflection. Both options still feel bad and unpredictable in gameplay compared to normal console racing games. I assume this means that typical console game filtering is not Cubic, or not only cubic.

• "Dead zone!"

  • The problem I'm talking about has nothing to do with dead zone. Dead zone means an area of ignored input on the analog stick. Dead zone means no input happens within the dead zone. Dead zone means that games don't get input triggered by unintended thumb resting fluctuations, and can fix joystick drift by ignoring spurious idle inputs. (The Xbox 360 era often had a horrible and absurd amount of unchangeable dead zone by default, seemingly sometimes 25%.) Dead zone is an on or off thing, it’s no input at the beginning of stick movement and then becomes a beginning of input when you move the stick past the dead zone. But it seems some devs wrongly use 'dead zone' to mean sensitivity curve, like the concept is no longer a binary but a reduced deader area of the stick…which should be correctly known as sensitivity or input curve, etc. Oh well.

A FEW PATHS OR ALTERNATIVES:

• External app or gamepad calibrator.

  • I've fiddled with the analog stick setting in FlyDigi "SpaceStation" for my FlyDigi Vader 4 and 5 Pro. The limitation is that if you adjust the analog joystick curve, you still need to choose between a final input of 100% or not 100%. In reality, at some point, you're going to move the analog stick all the way, in which case it will either instantly translate to full 100% in the game if you haven't capped it (i.e. lowered the max output), or will fail to ever reach 100% steering if you capped it. The other limitation is that you can't really set a "curve" with multiple custom points on the graph, you can only set one mid-point and an endpoint...input will always go from 0 linearly to your custom midpoint, then linearly from there to your endpoint (ideally 100%). In other words, you can't set a 'curve' but rather two lines, so you can do a shallow line that then turns into a steeper line near full deflection. It's not ideal at all. And inputs around your custom mid-point will always be relatively sudden at the linear line suddenly changes at that point, without a gradual curve.

  • This comment mentions vJoy and JoyStickGremline. vJoy readme doesn't say what it is or what it does, unfortunately. JoyStickGremlin info mentions something like capping the analog stick output (so a max deflection would only translate to 80% input in a game, etc), and maybe an option to adjust the curve, but it doesn't seem like a solution.

• Final Burn Neo(?) maybe has steering filtering, but FB Neo is 2D games only (unlike MAME). I mention this because FB Neo focusses on usability stuff, whereas MAME is focussed on the nitty gritty of hardware emulation.

• RetroArch

  • Retroarch has an analog joystick sensitivity setting, and it helps the steering problem if you decrease it, however it seems totally broken because it affects both analog steering and analog throttle (pedals / triggers) at the same time...so your throttle stops working correctly. I tested in Virtua Racing. I'm also unsure if it still allows for eventual full range of motion / full steering, it certainly 'slows' it down but I'm not sure what exactly is happening. (I also messed up my MAME in RetroArch and I can't bring up the in-MAME menu, in RA, that would let me see the visual indicator bar for analog control testing.)

• Gyro steering... I've tried it with FlyDigi Vader 4 Pro in MAME Virtua Racing, but it doesn't work well. (It's also totally unclear what the axes are or what the controller orientation is supposed to be for default, for example I couldn't tell whether I was supposed to hold the controller normally or hold it upright like a steering wheel.)

• Reverse engineering official ports. I don't have the recent Namco Ridge Racer ports, but studying what they did (if anything) for translating arcade controls to modern gamepad could be instructive.

• Controllers:

  • Attachable plastic mini-wheel. It looks silly but seems like a great idea.

  • NeGcon or equivalent which uses a twisting motion for a range of travel. It's 2026 but sadly no one has made a similar controller for modern systems.

  • A real wheel. I don't really want a real wheel, because of space and 'extra junk' factor.

• Volunteer programming. An interested and able volunteer would have to take on a project to add steering filtering option in MAME. (If external apps today do the same thing well, it would be a needless project.) This comment explains some technical aspects of arcade steering and points out my “slower” description above is probably wrong for how we want a filter to work.

Does anyone have real solutions for what I'm talking about? Is there some magical utility that does analog stick filtering that I have somehow missed? To some extent, it might be impossible, because a general tool can't account for specific current in-game speed which I believe is how most games do filtering. But I'm looking for anything that would help.

This hotfix fixes several issues, such as a bug where Dolphin crashes for users in Alberta and British Columbia, color corruption on Adreno GPUs, missing translations on macOS, and more.

https://dolphin-emu.org/blog/2026/09/24/dolphin-progress-report-release-2609/

Hybrid JIT might be unstable in some scenes, as PowerPC Execution Mode is still mid-transition between the pure C interpreter and JIT. If you experience heavy FPS drops, switch back to the pure C interpreter for now. If an issue occurs, please exit and share your \Data\Model3Vulkan.log
It’s critical for ongoing development toward 100% JIT.

Hey r/emulation,

I'm the dev behind Model 3-Vulkan, a Sega Model 3 emulator with a Vulkan renderer. v0.9.9.6 just went up. I'm not going to dump the whole changelog here, just the stuff worth trying.

The big one is the CPU. PowerPC code now gets translated to x86-64 and runs natively. In a CPU-heavy scene I went from about 55 fps to 100s fps. I also ran it side by side with the old interpreter for a few hundred million blocks and didn't hit a single mismatch, so it's not just "fast but wrong".

Audio now does native 4.0 and 5.1, with a proper centre and LFE upmix. There's a lossless multichannel recorder too (WAV float or FLAC) if you want to capture the 5.1 mix.

Direct-drive wheels finally work properly. On Windows the SDL3 haptics were being initialised in the wrong order, so a lot of DD bases never showed up. That's fixed, along with the constant-force direction and a 20 ms attack so the torque doesn't step. The FFB page also has a live axis table for wheel/pedal deadzone and travel.

The chase camera has a spring-damper stabiliser now. Gamepad steering doesn't swing the whole horizon anymore, and Daytona 2's speedo, course map and turn arrows stay still.

Save states are less annoying: the 53C810 PCI state, the network board and the DSB MPEG window are in the save now, so loading doesn't need the old "wait a few seconds for the boot" trick.

There's also per-pixel alpha sorting, MSAA, DDS/.dds.zst texture packs, frosted-glass themes, 4K/Retina and VRR multiples, but those have been in for a bit.

Screenshots of the new settings pages:

[screenshot 1: Core → PowerPC Execution Mode = Hybrid JIT]

[screenshot 2: Sound → 6 (5.1 Surround), Smart 5.1 Upmixer, Record Lossless Audio]

[screenshot 3: FFB / Sensitivity → stick smoothing, sensitivity, chase camera stabilizer]

[screenshot 4: FFB / Sensitivity → direct-drive axis calibration]

Downloads: https://github.com/Igloo-Garage/Model-3-Vulkan/releases/tag/v0.9.9.6

Windows x64, Linux x86_64 (glibc 2.38+), macOS Intel and Apple Silicon. SHA256SUMS.txt is there too. No ROMs or BIOS, obviously.

A few things to know:

• FFB is off by default. Turn it on once in FFB / Sensitivity, or use -force-feedback.

• macOS 13 can't use the .zst save container (the HostCore module needs macOS 14's Swift runtime). It falls back to .st.

• Scud Race Deluxe still has the grey CONDITION map/HUD. That's an old emulation gap, not something I fixed in this release. Twin/DX is fine.