I’m trying to close this gap from my patio and shed.

The angles are not the same so there would have to be some type of step flashing?

Any suggestions is appreciated

Hello i am trying to make a 100km ball To put a elevator on the ball and offer space tourism I was told its $3 milliom a km for ashaplt so 3million x 3.14 3.14 million circumference And 314 million for 100km 314mlm x 100,000 meter is 31.4 trillion Im trying to bring that cost down Someone said $150,000km Which is $41 million 100km $5 trillion about for a 100 km jball There's bamboo which is cheaper I hope we open the space tourism industry Let me know what you think Thanks for letting me ask

Hey looking for resources or even experiences. I have an old cedar closet in the attic that was temp controlled by the boiler, no boiler anymore 100 year old house. I was thinking infrared sauna but I'm looking if anyone has resources on how to properly insulate and vent this build out if possible. thank you

Was up in my attic and was looking around and saw all of these scraps of wood used in the most peculiar of places and ways. I've not seen this before anywhere. Locale is oklahoma city area. Should I be worried about this?

Bought a small mountain cabin that has a wood-burning fireplace and we would like to install a range hood that vents to the outside. But we heard that it could cause the fireplace smoke and exhaust to be sucked back into the house. Wonder if that's the reason there were no kitchen or bathroom exhaust vents installed previously. Are vented hoods not ideal for this type of house? Any advice is truly appreciated.

The greenhouse is 25 feet long and 7 feet wide. The base of the greenhouse are metal poles that form a rectangle perimeter. I want to do it myself not sure if it's doable or if it's too much concrete to do by myself. Should I make it a little bigger than what the greenhouse is? Is there a good way I can secure the metal poles (the base of the greenhouse) to the slab so it doesn't fly away from wind? Like should I let it dry in the concrete or some type of fasteners sticking out of it to bolt it to the base or should I just find a fastener and just get some concrete screws after it's done? The link is to the greenhouse I plan on buying from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Quictent-Greenhouse-Crossbars-Galvanized-Gardening/dp/B09JB4BJ8Z/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.ded65d3b-e50d-452a-a89e-f97b45e5144c%3Aamzn1.sym.ded65d3b-e50d-452a-a89e-f97b45e5144c&crid=2BKJG083W8UZK&cv_ct_cx=greenhouse%2Bquictent&keywords=greenhouse%2Bquictent&pd_rd_i=B09JB4BJ8Z&pd_rd_r=98eb8dde-30bc-4fc0-95a4-2d8484a7d080&pd_rd_w=pi1so&pd_rd_wg=SzEn9&pf_rd_p=ded65d3b-e50d-452a-a89e-f97b45e5144c&pf_rd_r=CFBZRVVR465FDMED8K5C&qid=1662694209&sprefix=greenhouse%2Bquictent%2Caps%2C158&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&th=1

I am looking to install an interior double door in an opening between two rooms that do not currently have a door in them. New baby sleeps in the room and is keeping my wife up all night with every little sound. Earplugs, although a potential elegant solution, do not work. I outfitted her with my big ol chainsaw ear protection but for some reason she doesn't like it for sleeping.

Was hoping to remove the trim and just install a prehung French/double door, but my rough opening is 48(w)x81(h), and everything I see online requires a 50" wide rough opening.

What are my options? Thank you very much!

We recently bought a house in Denver and the previous owner replaced the roof a couple of months before we bought it. The patio has a large overhang that has the rolled rough looking roofing material with some sort of tar underneath. The last 2 summers have been hot and the tar has been dripping out... ALOT. I thought it might stop after one summer but it has only gotten worse it seems this summer. It is dripping off of the edge of the roof, and it is coming through the underside of the overhang as well through the seems of the ceiling. It drips in the gutters and down on to our concrete and our dogs step in it and we step in it and it stains the concrete. Its terrible. We really want to do something about it. Does anyone know if there is a way to prevent the dripping? I thought about possibly attaching some sort of flashing to the edge of the roof, but then that would most likely block the gutters. Is there a fix or work around or do we have to get the roof redone by someone who doesn't suck.

Hello I was just looking under my kitchen sink to look at my garbage disposal and noticed that it has a normal outlet instead of a GFCI...I know that above the sink and within 2 feet all outlets should be GFCI should the ones under the sink be GFCI too or is a normal outlet fine in California?

Hi! I have a question that is construction related.

I'm currently working on a little project of mine designing a sort of garage/mechanical workshop. It is somewhat like a standalone building rather than part of a home. I was considering using roller shutter doors on certain locations, like the rear access, and such. What I want to know is that are there any shutter doors that can close quickly in case of emergency or something like that by just pressing a button or releasing something then the doors drops down into the closed position as fast as possible? I've seen some quick close doors, but they're not exactly quick. Are there any brands or models that have that? And what terms or words should I be typing into google search to find what I'm looking for? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Looking for an adhesive or something that can stick silicone to silicone?

I'm pretty sure it isn't because when I look up into ceiling there are slats running perpendicular that are not joists. So therefore I assume the joist are above these slate and run parallel to my wall thus making my wall not load bearing.

Looking for a second opinion: https://imgur.com/a/0qlMgdE

I'm putting in a door and would prefer not to do the extra step of building an outer support on one side of wall if it's load bearing.

Also curious if it isn't load bearing should I bother with Jack's in the Frame for the door

Hi, we're two engineering-students (product devs) volunteering in Sri Lanka at a small elephant sancturary (two female, 50 yrs old, former working, asian elephants).

The total enclosure boundary is 170 meters with 80 meters (262 ft) of fencing needed and the rest being a natural dirt wall.

As of now we are considering three main concepts:

1. Reinforced concrete columns with wire/rope in between

2. Reused railway tracks as poles and crossbars

3. Large wooden logs positioned with gaps smaller than the elephants width

The fencing has to be strong enough for the elephants to scratch/lean, but also be as low cost as possible, as the prices in Sri Lanka are at their highest due to the ongoing economic crisis.

We are having a hard time determining the sufficient dimensions for all of the concepts.

We are open to any ideas/force calculations/tips that might get us closer to build this project and keep the elephants unchained at all times!

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!

Concept#1 is attached to give you an idea of where we are currently at.

Hi there

I'm interested in a house but it has a fracture/crack in a brick wall (Photos here). The crack is a few mm wide in some places. The wall is an internal wall shared with the adjacent house, as they are a duplex.

Photos here - https://imgur.com/a/HNGGJLN

How big a deal is it? What should be done to fix it?

Not sure if this is the correct forum but I have a crawel space question.

We are building a home and the manager and builder of said company for our home is telling us that we need to add an additional 2 feet 8 inches to our already 40 inch (3.33 feet) crawel space.

Our lot starts 2 inches below the BFE ( Base flood elevation ) and according to our county inspector the floor of the habitable area must still be elevated at least two feet higher than the floodplain aka BFE. The 40 inch (3.33 feet) crawel space coversthis 2 feet mandate plus some, so we are trying to understand why would our builder want to go an additional 2 feet 8 inches basically placing our home on a basement size crawel space when our build site is completely flat.

The total cost for this additional 2 feet 8 inches is 11k and the builder mention needing to ensure the hvac unit, duct work, floor joist etc are clear from the flood plain but wouldnt they already be clear with a 40 inch (3.33 feet)Crawel space if our lot is only 2 inches below the BFE?

I have a very old house(1880s) ive been told the foundation style is "stone on grade foundation" the crawl space is dirt floor. there is an addition on the house with the same depth crawl space except it has concrete instead of rocks with a couple vents, the existing rocks in the old foundation have loads of air gaps. the distance from dirt to floor joist is about 8-15 inches depending on area. the crawl space floor is muddy most of the time. id like to improve the crawl space somehow to help with things like bugs and mice problems, energy efficiency, keep the foundation of the house healthy, and reduce mold risk. what options do i have?

Can I install vinyl planks (LifeProof Rigid Core luxury vinyl flooring) over tile floor? The tile floor is slightly uneven and has grout between the tiles.

Just curious if anyone has done this or if this is a really bad idea.

First time doing flooring and the tile floor is going to be difficult to remove under the sink (consulted with floor expert and he said the piping for the sink makes it too difficult to move) and in some other areas.

I have a closet that i am looking to rough in and put a door on. It is to the left of my shower.

I had planned on putting 24" bifold doors on this and these would have worked great b/c there isn't enough area to put a normal door there. WHen i add the 1.5" for the finishing wood that puts me at 25.5" wide. I only have 24" of space here. What would you do for a door in those spot? Thanks! Aaron

I want to add a pull up bar to this ceiling but it has stucco on it, how do i find where the 2x4 stretches across it so i can properly anchor it?

Hello, noobie here! Does anyone know if I can extend the living room floor above the stairwell? To keep to headspace requirements, I’m wondering if a glass floor would work. Also, will HOA allow this? (Last photo is an example of what I mean)