I was a huge fan of Rhoda throughout the most recent season of Top Chef, so CanoeHouse at Mauna Lani was the restaurant I was most looking forward to trying on our trip. Unfortunately, the experience left me disappointed in both the food and, unexpectedly, the impression I came away with of Rhoda’s involvement in the restaurant.
The first odd interaction actually happened at check-in at Mauna Lani. We mentioned to the front desk attendant that we were Top Chef fans and were excited to eat at Rhoda’s restaurant. He said it was exciting that she won, but then told us that she isn’t at the resort very often and, when she is, tends to keep her head down and focus on working the line rather than talking to guests. We both thought it was an odd comment and found it deflationary given our expressed excitement.
The restaurant itself is in a beautiful location, although parts of the interior feel dated. We ordered the Shokupan Pull-Apart Bread ($18), Iberico Pork ($75), Short Rib Massaman Curry ($75), and Garlic Fried Rice ($32).
Unfortunately, the food was underwhelming, especially given the prices. The bread tasted good but was dense and stodgy. The Iberico pork was very good, although the dish felt incomplete for $75, coming with nothing beyond pickles. The short rib Massaman curry bordered on inedible. The meat was tough, and the curry was so overwhelmingly heavy on cinnamon that it tasted as though someone had accidentally dumped the entire spice container into it. The garlic fried rice was fine, if a bit oily, but had a furikake-like flavor that I didn't enjoy and hadn't expected from the menu description.
One positive: our waiter was genuinely good. We were dining with a pregnant woman, and he was thoughtful about making sure the dishes were appropriate for her. The service was attentive and considerate throughout, which made what happened next all the more surprising.
At one point, we asked our waiter whether Rhoda was working that evening and mentioned that we were fans of hers from Top Chef. He said she wasn't there and, without any further prompting from us, essentially repeated what the front desk attendant had said. According to him, Rhoda rarely comes to the restaurant anymore, typically visits for a few days, works the line and spends time on her computer ordering, and then leaves. He even mentioned having asked her recently whether she was happy with the current setup, which seemed like a very odd thing to volunteer.
To be clear, we never met Rhoda, and I have no firsthand knowledge of how she manages the restaurant or what her responsibilities look like behind the scenes. I also don't think a chef needs to personally greet every guest. But it was striking to hear essentially the same characterization from two different employees when all we'd done was mention that we were fans and ask whether she was there.
I came away from Top Chef as a big Rhoda fan. I was excited to experience her food in person. In the end, we had an expensive and, in one case, nearly inedible meal, alongside two unsolicited accounts that left me wondering how involved she actually is in the restaurant's day-to-day operations.
Maybe we caught CanoeHouse on an off night, and I hope that's all it was. The setting is beautiful, and the service really was thoughtful. But between the food and the strange conversations about Rhoda's presence, it was a disappointing end to what I'd expected to be one of the highlights of our trip.
Has anyone else been to CanoeHouse recently? I'm curious whether this was an isolated experience or whether others have had similar impressions.