My partner and I just got a nicer couch than the free one we had from family. The one we had before didn’t have any feet and sat directly on the ground and this one has feet. My problem is he’s a plopper, he doesn’t sit gently and has already broken the frame some. He doesn’t do it on purpose he’s a big guy (6’6 330 lb). What can I put underneath or a good way to fix it so it doesn’t completely break we literally just got it yesterday and I want it to last a while. Any suggestion is welcome 😊😊

Hey guys how can this be fixed? This is in a crawlspace under a woodstove and sliding glass door.

my room has a weird wall that i was trying to fill up with PVC slat panels. ended up with it looking incredibly uneven.

how do i fix this? i would like to add some sort of indirect lighting as well but i’m kinda stuck on how i should go about this.

should i just paint the whole wall similar to the colour of the panels to blend in nicely?

any help is appreciated! thank you in advance.

Ugh, I shouldn’t have tried putting this together by myself but I live alone so… Any suggestions on how to fix the holes so that they’ll hold the screw again? Wood glue???

So, I recently ordered a patio swing bed, rated for 800 pounds.

I am currently looking at purchasing the ceiling hardware for it. ( 4 points of contact for support).

The bed has rope for suspension.

With that said, im on the home depot website looking at different hardware, some say their rated 800 pounds other says 1500.

What ever I use, it will be going into wood.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what hardware to go with? ( it is what the patio swing bed will be hanging from).

The lip chipped going into the garage over the summer and I'm wondering the best way to fix this before the winter.

I’m debating how to go about mounting a 65” TV above an outdoor fireplace. Im not concerned about height, as the porch depth helps with the viewing angle. The chimney is 5 inch limestone veneer on sheathing with metal studs.

If I mount to the chimney with an articulating wall mount, I’m concerned about anchoring into studs or sheathing. Would a toggle bolt work and be able to support the mount and tv? The stone veneer is thick, so the mount would be sitting out from the anchor point and bear on the veneer to some degree. I’m not crazy about this option due to drilling through the stone. Another thought would be to mount wood blocking to the face of stone and attach the tv mount to the blocking, but it creates the same issue as above.

If I use a ceiling mount, I need to get into the faux beam and mount the down tube to structure, such as the actual ridge beam. This seems more straightforward assuming there may be some blocking I need to install depending on the mounting plate configuration.

Is there an obvious option I’m missing? Mounting to either side is not a great option due to the size of the tv. Which strategy is the best approach?

• The mounting plate is:    213.21      1  5/16"

• The hinge cup says:  34.355-01.01    110

I need to replace the 25 year old hinge above.

Ideally, I'd want a replacement that was the simplest, in terms of expertise needed.

thanks

I have 24mm thk ply shelf planks, 195mm deep. Using these 85mm long 12mm dia brackets that insert into the shelf. Q: should i screw to the brick wall horizontally and cut the square part of bracket into the shelf, or screw holes vertically and hide them in the plaster?

im concerned the wall fixing will not be strong enough horizontal, feeling reassured by them vertical having a bit more lever resistance to the shelf... overthinking it??

its a kitchen shelf, for lots of jars, mugs, bowls ect. the heaviest part of it all is the shelf itself i would think.

thanks all for your view/ opinions.

We got our coats and shoes out like two hours ago and now the knob moves a bit but we can’t open.
Any suggestions? How do we get this thing open?

Nobody's coming over this Christmas, just me and the cat. I still want something festive by the desk, so I'm planning a few flat wooden stars to hang near the monitor. Small enough that I can finish them without taking over the apartment.

I've been looking at tutorials where you trace a shape onto wood, cut it out, smooth the edges and drill a hole for the ribbon. For this first go, I'd start with pre-cut thin plywood stars and do the sanding, holes and painting myself. I haven't started yet.

I'm considering the mini drill from the hoto SNAPBLOQ range for the small hanging holes. My plan is to try a hole in an offcut of the same plywood first, then clamp each blank over a scrap backing board for drilling. After that I'd smooth any rough edges by hand, paint the stars and thread the cord once they're dry.

How much wood would you leave between a small hanging hole and the edge of a thin plywood star? I'd rather work that out before painting a batch and snapping a point off. Nobody's coming to inspect them, but I'd still like them to survive Christmas.

I'm trying to remove the shelf bracket above my bathroom sink. I can see the screws, but the countertop leaves about 8 cm of working space and my regular screwdriver won't sit straight on the heads.

• The handle and shaft are too long for the gap.

• The cheap offset bit holder I tried keeps slipping out at an angle.

• The slot is starting to get chewed up, and I don't want to keep slipping on it.

I'm checking the hoto Pivot Drive as well as a small bit ratchet, but I need to allow for the bit and the space to get it onto the screw. In a gap like this, what measurements would you check beyond the tool's stated height?

Not a chance I can get this on there by sliding it. I can’t make it past the 2 foot mark. Way too much friction. And I tried the other way of pushing the panel into the channel sideways. I even watched the manufacturer video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyY_dbFiIEE)!

What’s the trick? Surely people make this work on full length sheets!