I bought one of the head units below for £350 and it's worked perfect for over a year.

I just finished installing all new speakers in place of the stock ones (2 Tweeters, 4 drivers). I also installed a subwoofer under the drivers seat.

The problem:

On the way to work this morning I was listening to music (full volume appreciating the new sound system). All speakers just cut off except the subwoofer. The head unit is working fine, there's no static noise coming from any of the speakers and none of the three fuses that link with the sound system are blown and all wires going into the rear of the head unit are fine.

Even stranger, the head unit has two outputs, the standard output into the stock wiring loom (how it's currently setup). It also has a set of output RCA cables, the RCA cables are outputting sound, I haven't yet been able to test the wiring loom outputs as I don't know which ones are for the speakers.

I'm totally at a loss on this one!

I'm planning a car stereo meet (not a car show or competition) in eastern NC. If you are interested please PM me and I can give you the details.

Can anyone recommend a very reliable, longer distance-capable unit? I'd like to supply small business the capability to control from an iPad to a home stereo mounted in a secure closet. I've used adapters in the past that broadcasted on an FM frequency but I remember them being very short range.

My little brother just received his drivers lisence, and sadly when I visited a month ago and borrowed his car, I some how ruined the radio. Now I want to buy him one for a Christmas present. Can anyone help with what I need and would be a good head unit kit. Its and old Honda CR-V. Unsure of the year, can update when my mother responds to my text.

I have a 2006 Ford Expedition EB that still have the factory model stereo (dvd player) 6 cd changer & an extra aux port built into the overhead dvd player. I would like blue tooth capability and have finally decided to the factory radio. Can anyone recommend a unit which will allow me to still use the factory, DVD player. TIA all

Hey Reddit peeps. So I have a sub and amp kit running in a 2012 Nissan Maxima. I can't find a good ground in my trunk. I've made test spots everywhere. Tested rear seat belts. Atless 12 areas in the trunk. All the grounds I can find have a resistance load of 3.45ohms to 2.4ohms. The only 0.5 to 0.0 load. Is my engine block. It's like the whole chassis is protected in paint and glue. I'm pretty sure this car can float in water. I though about running through the trunk and connect it to the axle somewhere. But this is Florida I'm sure it will rust. If I need to run it to my engine block should I run it on the other side or can ground and power line be next to each other? Right now power runs driver side, audio cables run down the Center glovebox and 10gauge speaker wires are running down the passenger side.

I’ve looked everywhere online for a solution to this and I’m at a lost. I’ll try to explain everything I understand so far but feel free to correct me.

I own a 2007 Scion Tc with the factory pioneer radio that I wanted to swap out for an aftermarket, touchscreen radio so I could connect my phone to it and install a backup camera. I bought the stereo, camera, and wire harness

The harness is preset so all I have to do is match the colors from the radio wires to the harness wires. Here’s a list of each wire and it’s corresponding color:

Reverse-Brown Brake-Pink Key 1-Brown/Black Battery+ -Yellow Antenna-Blue Illumination-Orange Ignition-Red Ground-Black All others are for speaker connections

So after matching what I could, I saw that 3 wires weren’t used. The reverse, brake, and key 1 wires on the radio side. These wires were nonexistent on the harness side.

Now I’ve read that the reverse wire connects to the backup camera. That makes sense obviously because how else would the radio know to turn the camera on? Then the manual said that video playback is illegal while driving in some countries and to bypass this, you have to connect the brake wire to ground. If someone could tell me if it’s even worth doing and/or how to do it, I’d appreciate that.

And that leaves Key 1. I have no idea what this connects to or if it’s even used at all. Can someone give me pointers on what I should do about these extra wires. Thank you in advance.

Is it possible to rig two of these under the driver and passenger seat? Having both work at the same time of course.

I recently purchased a 2018 grand Cherokee with stock audio. I had a shop install a 5-way amp, new speakers, and a sub off the stock radio and it’s been nothing but problems since. First the right rear channel was out and after 2 attempts to adjust the resistor used to trick the head into there was a live speaker attached they finally replaced the resistor and for 7 days it was awesome. Then the front left channel went out then came back on then out again. I brought it back they fiddled with the resistor and it never worked again. I brought it back a couple of more times and they tried to use LGDs instead of resistors then a resistor on a DSP with vehicle specific adapter to no avail. Now tonight the other front channel went out. I did have a code check run on it and what I can tell are a few things...

1. They did all the install and repair without disconnecting the battery (plethora of stored faults on install mileage and at the times they fiddled with it)

2. A stored code for a rear channel ground short

3. The computer is reading the front left as an open circuit even though it’s not open)

One other thing of note is in engineering mode the build date for the radio is listed as 1/1/15, which is not real but a default reset date.

What did they do and did they break my radio? Any ideas?

Looking to buy 2 IX-8 subwoofers for a 07 Lexus is350 and plan on removing the stock sub. What kind of amp would I need for them to work properly? And also any guidance for the wiring aspect to integrate with the original speakers? Thank you!