They are removing it from Samsung TV?

Has the brick + all of the other items.
Don’t have a working PC currently so… this thing is completely useless to me. What can I do with it?

I don’t remember how much these things cost. Were they ever particularly valuable? Doubt I could flip one for very much but still

bonus: I also appear to have a Steam Controller still in the box. The original one from 2015 i think? That thing worth anything or no?

EDIT: MY GAMING PC IS NOT FUNCTIONING. Please don’t suggest options that are basically “oh you can use it to stream games” if i wanted to stream games I’d just… be using this thing already and not making a post here???

Thinkin of trying to install a newer version of steam os on this original steamlink. Thoughts?

Repurposed my old iPhone XS Max into a steam deck alternative. Has worked great so far and stops me from doomscrolling when getting into bed. A few hiccups during the set up but it’s pretty much pick up and play now.

Bought the link along with the controller for $20 together and never got around to the link as sourcing the original power supply is near impossible. Then I realized I had a power supply with adjustable voltage and decided to try it out. After verifying that it was center positive, I hooked it up and connected to my WiFi, only for it to start downloading and applying 45 updates. It appears that this has never saw much use to say the least.

Also, can anyone verify for me that there’s a coil whine sort of sound coming out their own? Definitely audible in a dead silent room.

I found my old steam link a bit ago, I bought it when they first came out. I only had wifi connections at the time living in an apartment. It didnt do so well then and it got stuck in a drawer and lost for some time. I even thought it got thrown out at one point in thw few moves since then.

Now that it's found amd I have a house. I want to start using it. I was able to get it to work with my wireless controller, and just the device on wifi. I plan to run an ethernet cable to it, but would that solve the input lag I was getting? Or will I also need to use my controller wired too? If I do that, can I use a USB hub? I want to have a keyboard, mouse, and 2 controllers hooked up. I was hoping wireless would be ok, but if it has input lag and I can use a hub, I'll switch to everything wired.

Hi everyone,

After countless hours of research and frustration, I have finally discovered what has been causing this long standing issue and two simple fixes that have worked for me and will hopefully work for you too!

Fix 1:

1. In Windows, go to your Start menu or Windows search box and type in or look for Device Manager and open/launch it.

2. Click on View and Show Hidden Devices, and look for Windows xBox 360 Controllers on the bottom.

3. Delete all controllers listed in there and reboot your computer.

4. It should be fixed, if not, then try fix number 2.

Fix 2:

1. Open/Launch Steam and put it into Big Picture Mode.

2. In Big Picture Mode go to Settings, then Controller configuration.

3. In the Controller Configuration menu (it should display an xBox Controller), select the D-Pad (Directional Pad).

4. Select Advanced Settings and then turn off Haptics Intensity.

5. Save your config and enjoy.

Notes: I have no idea why Haptics Intensity is causing the constant double input issue, nor why it is enabled at all for the D-Pad on non-Steam Controllers. For whatever reason, this was definitely causing the double input issue that so many people have been struggling with in Steam.

rant/ Trying to play Dead or Alive 5: Last Round was a royal pain in the ass with the double input issue on the D-Pad, since Fix 1 that normally worked for me, did not work for me recently. So I investigated the controller configuration for the D-Pad and noticed that there was Haptics Enabled for it in the Profile, after disabling it - boom problem stopped completely :-D /rant

Anyway, please let me know if this worked for your too or if I overlooked something in my quick instructions.

21 Updates? All that? Something I've lost all this time?

Of course I will study this subreddit from top to bottom, but I would like you to tell me what I can do to use my Steam Link in the best way. Mods for emulators... to make the system lighter.

Please, guys! Tell me the news!

Hey all, I decided to compile a few frequently asked questions/instructions here so that it’s easier to find and point people to. There are many different ways to accomplish what I am going to describe here, this is just the most basic, manual method of getting things set up.

Adding Non Steam Games/Programs to Steam

In order to stream games and programs not from the steam store via Steam Link, it is best to add them to steam as Non-Steam games for full functionality

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For non-DRM games or emulators, you can add these games directly from this window.

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But if you want to have separate controller configurations for each emulated game, you should follow the instructions later in the guide to add each emulated game instead of the emulator itself.

If you’re adding a game from another launcher/store(Epic, Origin, Uplay) with DRM (which most games have, except those from GOG), you’ll need to use one of two programs to coordinate opening the launcher, starting the game, and getting steam to hook into the game process instead of the launcher, then closing the launcher when it’s no longer needed. There are 2 programs that I recommend to accomplish this, they are OSOL and GloSC.

OSOL & GLoSC

These programs handle the coordination in different ways, and I recommend each for different things. While OSOL opens the launcher, launches the game, focuses steam on the game process, and then closes the launcher when the game process exits, GloSC opens the game normally but instead of Steam hooking into the game process directly, it hooks into a transparent window created by GloSC.

For Origin, Epic, Uplay, and Battle.net games I recommend using OSOL since it tends to perform the best in cases when the process can be hooked into. For Windows Store games I recommend GloSC since UWP apps cannot be hooked into, so OSOL will not work. In addition, there are a few cases where games will prevent processes from hooking into them (rejecting the Steam Overlay, and thereby Steam Input) so GloSC is the only alternative in these cases as well.

Configuring OSOL

OSOL can be downloaded from https://github.com/WombatFromHell/OriginSteamOverlayLauncher/releases, where the releases are packaged as .zip files. Once unpacked the only file of importance is the OriginSteamOverlayLauncher.exe file, which is both used to configure OSOL and to run OSOL itself. When first run, you will be asked to choose the path to your game executable

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and then asked to choose the path to the launcher executable.

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Selecting the game and launcher executables will generate a .ini file containing the configuration for that instance of OSOL, so if you select the wrong files or mess up, don’t worry! You can still change the configuration directly from the ini file, which looks like this:

[Paths]
GamePath= | Path to the game executable
LauncherPath= | Path to the launcher executable
LauncherArgs= | Arguments to pass to the launcher
LauncherURI= | URI to pass to the launcher (rather than launching via a game executable, Epic uses these to launch the game)
GameArgs= | Arguments to pass to the game
MonitorPath= | Path to the executable that should be hooked into and monitored to determine when the game is closed
PreLaunchExecPath= | Path to an executable to be launched before the game or launcher is opened
PreLaunchExecArgs= | Arguments to pass to the pre game executable
PostGameExecPath= | Path to an executable to be launched after the game or launcher is closed
PostGameExecArgs= | Arguments to pass to the post game executable
[Options]
ReLaunch=True | Whether to attempt to re-launch the launcher when started 
SkipLauncher=False | Whether to skip opening the launcher
CloseLauncher=True | Whether to close the launcher when the game exits
AutoGameLaunch=True | Whether to automatically launch the game
MinimizeLauncher=False | Whether to attempt to force the launcher to minimize
ElevateExternals=False | Whether to run the pre/post executables as admin if OSOL is run as admin
PreGameLauncherWaitTime=15 | How long to wait after the launcher has been detected 
PreGameWaitTime=0 | How long to wait before launching the game
PostGameWaitTime=0 | How long to wait after launching the game
ProcessAcquisitionTimeout=120 | How long to wait for the game/monitored process to be detected
InterProcessAcquisitionTimeout=15 | How long to wait when attempting to re-aquire the game/monitored process
GameProcessAffinity= | Core affinity
GameProcessPriority=Normal | Priority of the game process
[Info]
ReleaseVersion=1.0.9.8

Of these options, you’ll mostly use the Game and Launcher Paths, the Launcher Args and URI, and on occasion the MonitorPath. Rather than re-write everything already in the OSOL wiki, I’ll point you to it instead: https://github.com/WombatFromHell/OriginSteamOverlayLauncher/wiki

Finally, to add the game to steam, add the OriginSteamOverlayLauncher.exe to Steam, then rename it to the game name from the shortcut properties.

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Configuring GloSC

GloSC is quite a bit easier to set up. You can download the installer from https://github.com/Alia5/GloSC/releases, which will install the GloSC program which manages all games added via GloSC.

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In order to use it, simply launch the program, click create and enter the information for the game.

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Usually you will want to have “Launch Game” and “Close shortcut when launched Application Closes”, but it depends on what you’re trying to launch. You can either enter the path by typing, by clicking the three dots […], or by clicking the UWP button to add a UWP game.

Often the UWP app list is incomplete, so you will need to enter the path manually. The easiest way to get the path of a UWP app is to make a shortcut to the app on your desktop (right click it and add it to your start menu, then drag it to your desktop) and then open the properties for the shortcut.

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Often the path will be longer than the preferences window, so you can drag the shortcut into notepad to view the whole path. There will be spaces between every character, so just replace the spaces with nothing to make it easier to read .

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The path will always end with “!Something”, and often the “Something” is “App” or “Game” which makes it easier to find the path in the file.

Now that you have the path for the UWP app, just put that into OSOL as the path and click save to create the shortcut.

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Once you’ve added all the GloSC shortcuts you want, you can add all of them to steam using the “Add all to Steam button” but be careful since this will close Steam.

Emulators

While you can add most emulators directly to Steam as Non-Steam games, adding the games themselves allows you to have separate controller configurations for each emulated game, and to seamlessly load an emulated game alongside the PC games in your collection. Generally you add the emulator as a non steam game, then go into the properties for the shortcut and add the path to the Rom File.

Some emulators need additional flags before or after the ROM File, and I’ll give some example configurations below:

Yuzu/Citra/PPSSPP/ReDream/RPCS3/Xenia: “Path to emulator executable” “Path To Rom File”

Dolphin: “Path to Dolphin executable” -b -e “path to ROM file”

CEMU: “Path to CEMU executable” -f -g “path to ROM file”

PCSX2: “Path to PCSX2 executable” “Path To Rom File” --nogui --fullscreen

Retroarch: "path to retroarch executable" -L cores\emulator core .dll file "path to rom file"

ePSXe: "path to ePSXe exectuable" -nogui -loadbin "path to rom file”

DRM Free (GOG, Twitch Gaming)

This one is easy. If your game has No DRM, just add it as a non-Steam game directly. That’s it!

SteamGridDB

https://www.steamgriddb.com/ has a great database of Steam Library images to make the non-steam games look just like the native steam ones. They have images for both the normal library view (600x900 pixels) and for the Big Picture mode view (460x215 pixels).

To import the images into the normal library, you can download the image from steamgriddb, then right click on the non-steam game and select Manage -> Add custom artwork and navigate to the downloaded image.

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To add the images to the Big Picture Mode library view, you need to select the game in Big Picture mode, then select “change icon” and navigate to the downloaded image.

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Supported Controllers

Steam has a list of supported controllers for each type of the software, and while it is by no means comprehensive (I often use 8BitDo controllers on my Android app, which aren’t on the list), It’s a pretty good place to check for a definitive answer of what does work.

OG Steam Link Hardware: https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=9221-RTID-4643

Steam Link Android App: https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=4415-USKX-8715

Steam Link iOS App: https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=4594-QEPA-1451

Steam Link Samsung TV App: https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=5613-TADC-2802

Steam Link Raspberry Pi App: https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=6153-IFGH-6589

More Advanced Stuff

Run Steam as Admin

If you don't launch steam at startup just right click steam and choose launch as admin. If you want Steam to launch at boot as admin, you need to set that up in task scheduler.

Open Task Scheduler and create a task called "Start Steam" that runs when user is logged on. Make sure to check "Run with highest privileges" in the general tab, since that's the whole reason we are doing this.

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Next go to the Triggers tab

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and create a trigger that begins "At log on" for "Any User".

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Now move to the Actions Tab

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and create a new Action in the Actions tab that launches the steam.exe.

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That should be all you need to do to set steam to launch at boot as Admin.

Launching games/stuff with bat scripts

This is probably the most advanced you can get. OSOL can launch .bat scripts which can really do anything, launch anything, or change anything. In [This Guide]( https://www.reddit.com/r/PhantasyStarOnline2/comments/gsjicf/a_guide_a_wrote_up_for_playing_pso2_on_steam_link/) I explained how to write a script that would change the UACLevel (generally a bad Idea, just for reference), but you could also use it to start a VPN connection so that you can use Xbox In-Home Streaming remotely, launch and focus a troublesome app like PlaystationNOW, or hundreds of other things. There is so much you can do that I can’t go through everything here, but I’ll include an example of the one I used for PlaystationNow when I was subscribed to it. I am no longer subscribed and the app may have changed so I can’t vouch for it’s functionality, but it gives you a general idea of what you can do with these scripts.

PreExec.bat

This script launches Glosc with a blank target and launches ViGem PS4 to emulate a PS4 controller.

u/echo off
Start "" "C:\Program Files\GloSC\SteamTarget.exe" "C:\Program Files\GloSC\targets\blank.ini"
"A:\Program Files\ViGem PS4\VDX_x64.exe"
Exit

PostExec.bat

This script kills the psnow launcher and ViGem PS4

u/echo off
taskkill /IM psnowlauncher.exe /F
taskkill /IM VDX_x64.exe /F
exit

I hope that this info has been helpful. I try to answer questions in this subreddit as much as I can, so I'll be around!

I work as a security guard for years doing night shifts, it was getting so boring, that i could not stay awake and was near to losing my job for it, I started looking for things to do, see movies, etc, until I found steamlink, i didnt even knew it existed but once i started using it i finally managed to put my sleep in line, now that i play during my night shifts im able to sleep in the day (Hours that I used to game, now I game at work) and train while being able to play games, thanks valve, thanks gabe newell, it has never given me any problems and I couldn't be more satisfied with the service.

Edit 1: I have seen a lot of people call this irresponsible, the fact that I play doesn't affect my work since I do regular checks on the place and don't use high volume, instead it's just a thing that helps me stay awake more than scrolling on TikTok endlessly, also the place I work at it's closed during nights and we only attend patients that come badly Ill or injured, I am right in front of the main door at all times, the town I live in is pretty small and I have been called 'The only guard that doesn't sleep', I also seen people say I'm lazy for having problems to stay awake when I'm being paid to, and I get it, but sadly I take care of my little brother during the days, he is six years old and its tiring too, I still do my work properly, thanks.

Impressively, Valve continue to support and improve the old but awesome Steam Link hardware with new firmware updates.

Remote microphones are now fixed, so you can don headsets and do gaming with voice again!

Note that you'll have to change to the beta channel in Settings -> System to get this update automatically.

Changes in build 906:

• Fixed microphone input

• Removed the ambient audio option, please let us know if you miss this!

• Added an experimental wired Xbox controller driver, with improved support for new controllers

• Fixed input when using the latest firmware for the Mayflash GameCube adapter

• Added support for extended inputs on 8BitDo and FlyDigi controllers

From https://steamcommunity.com/app/353380/discussions/0/6955341348098578510/

I ordered this thing last week because it was $2.50 and I was fully expecting it to take forever to ship based on the disclaimer warning me that it might when I bought it, and previous feedback from others who bought it on sale in the past.

It already came, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that it includes an HDMI cable and an ethernet cable, saving me from having to dig around my apartment for spares or at worst go buy them.

It seems a lot of things that require especially HDMI cables never seem to include them these days so it's nice of valve to include them.

Hello anyone who sees this, I am posting a guide on how to set up a Steam Link Hardware device + Get the best settings for seamless streaming. This post will be mundane for most, but considering the device is old and the updates have stopped I got it to where it is an AMAZING experience with no input lag or network delay. Oh, and posting a guide for others because it was a long pain finding info to get almost every little thing working right.

___

Quick backstory:

I just moved homes, and I wanted a seamless way to play any game on my living room TV from my PC in my gaming room with a controller with no input lag from controller, no screen buffering, great video, and no network lag. Basically: Have it feel like I have my main console in my living room when it is nowhere near. And no, I didn't want to use a long HDMI cord, cuz that's looks weird running through my house to my living room tv.

Originally, had used steam link app on a firestick 4k max on wifi. Both the Bluetooth for the controller was terrible, and the network lag sucked. Tried 2 other firesticks (1080p versions) and same thing.

Then, bought a $19 ONN 4K streaming device from Walmart, and THAT was the best bang for the buck for a wifi only set up. I set it up with Apollo (Sunshine streaming fork/variant) and Artemis (Moonlight streaming fork/variant) and it worked well for casual games. The input lag was not there too much, but for competitive games it was still a setback. But for a few casual comfy games me and my partner played it was perfect and not noticeable at all.

So i purchased a steam link hardware device because of it's reviews for Bluetooth capabilities, controller set ups, the ability to put Moonlight on there for faster streaming, ethernet built into it, and the fact it's a dedicated device made for this sort of thing. Got a used one with all the parts and adapters for $37 bucks but i see other sites have it cheaper. I've seen other people day Apple TV or Nvidia shield devices also work well, but this solution was a lot more affordable than those 2 things. But if you have those, then go for it.

__________

Guide:

So most of my "guide" is just links to other articles or videos to specific things that posed a challenge or needed to be done. You will NEED a PC and usb flash drive of at least 2 GB for updates and getting Moonlight on the device. The USB drive needs to be formatted to FAT 32.

Step 1. If you have a new steam link device, update the firmware on it.

Plug a mouse or keyboard in, as modern controllers that are not Steam ones wont work right. NOTE: If you DO use a controller, just note the bottom-most circle button (X for PS controllers, A for Xbox controllers) will be the "back" button, and the left most circle button (Square on PS controllers, X on Xbox controllers) will be the "selection/confirm" button. Anyways, head to the network section, get that set up, and then head to the "updates section" and update to the latest firmware.

Step 2, Get the LATEST firmware from the official website instructions.

So by now, the most recent firmware on the device that was downloaded from the internet is NOT the most recent one available... for some reason. This is important because if you get moonlight installed, you cannot use your controller in the app for moonlight (it works once moonlight launches a game though). The reasoning behind this is from this helpful comment here https://github.com/moonlight-stream/moonlight-qt/issues/697#issuecomment-2000140670 (recent versions have the fix patched, but the stock version and firmware updates for steam link hardware doesn't apply the fix automatically so that's why we update the firmware).

Anyways: Follow this link https://help.steampowered.com/en/faqs/view/3F04-3833-414D-454C and follow the instructions to update the firmware. Basically it will have you make a couple folders in the root of the flash drive (one called steamlink, then in that one called system, and in that one called config). Then, create a notepad with the build number (most recent version as of writing this is 882, so make a notepad with those 3 numbers typed), save it as update_branch.txt, and paste it into the config folder.

After that, unplug the steam link device, insert flash drive, and plug it back in. It should take a long time to boot, which means it's starting the backend stuff to update. Afterwards, It will use the internet connected to the device to update it to build version 882 which will show it updating onscreen.

Step 3: Get Apollo installed to the PC being streamed from.

So at this point you can just connect your steam link hardware to your computer over the network now and it works for basic casual games. But of course still wanted to play competitive games or games that need no input lag or network lag at all.

I recommend installing Apollo as the virtual display it creates helps easily match the refresh rate of the source, helping reduce input lag further. Follow this awesome guide to set that up: https://joeysretrohandhelds.com/guides/apollo-artemis-streaming-setup-guide/

NOTE: This is just for installing Apollo, so please only do that part. Artemis is android only at the moment. If in the future it comes to PC or other devices ill be doing that as well.

Step 4: Get Moonlight onto the Steam Link Hardware

So at this point, the flash drive used for updating the firmware should still be around. Follow this helpful comment to get moonlight installed to the actual device https://www.reddit.com/r/Steam_Link/comments/1g2l3y0/comment/lrpis4h/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

NOTE: When extracting the ZIP file for the steam link hardware version of Moonlight, remember you already created a folder called "steamlink" when updating the firmware. So when you open the extracted files for moonlight, just drag the "apps" folder from the extracted section into the previously created "steamlink" folder.

So the path in your flash drive at the point should be (insert flashdrive name here)\steamlink\apps\moonlight. Once you have that, unplug the steam link hardware, plug flashdrive in, and plug steam link hardware in once more. It will take longer to boot again, and once it launches the moonlight app should be installed.

Step 5: Optimize your PC and Moonlight app (DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP).

So out the gate, moonlight works faster than the native steam link steam to pc by itself. The input lag is certainly lower, but still not enough to where if i play a shooting game and move my joystick right, it immediately does it like on a console.

I followed the follow guide here https://www.reddit.com/r/MoonlightStreaming/comments/1ad8da3/how_to_perfectly_optimize_sunshine_and_moonlight/ to optimize the best settings for windows PC + optimizing moonlight. Review the guide, and then watch the video that is in it (this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNtqzfHBKys ). This helps properly update drivers, ensure proper frame buffers, set framerate limits, create specific ethernet status, etc.

Seems like simple small tweaks, which it is, but after following this the issues that I had ceased to exist. I launched marvel rivals, and my heart dropped after i realized that when i turned the character's aiming reticle that it moved instantly. and then as i played the game it's like i was right at my pc or on my PS5.

If there are any questions, feel free to ask. Like i said: This article is not for most folks, but for anyone in 2025 who really does want to use it to get the best experience out of it.

My next step is to see if it's possible to get a program called Chiaki (PS5 remote play alternative) on the Steam link device. If that is possible, then I can also have my ps5 AND pc in my game room while easily streaming BOTH of em to my living room TV with no lag. If i find this out ill post an update.